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Shiso leaf framing the amuse bouche of succulent pork meat sandwiching the steamed pancake and topped with shingle of shattering pork skin. A touch of hoisin sauce cements the perfect square of lusciousness in place. |
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Crab Imperial? Fried food? A favorite food of so many diners is a tour de force in Chef Chan Yan Tak's dish. To break this delicate crust is an “open sesame” of lush-succulent-chunks of crab meat. The quality reveals itself with just the subtle enhancement with Chinese leaks. The leak threads are a textural and taste counterpoint as well as a yin and yang balance to the dish. This is the pure taste of fresh sweet crab meat. |
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Curls of sea cucumber (4), forest of morel mushrooms and cross section cuts of (2) brassica sections float in a dance of flavored treasures from the earth. Subtle, power, reaching the depths and essence of each player in the deep murky mystery that is the ocean. Soup, clear, amber resonating forest floor swirling sea animal. |
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The matching porcelain cloche is removed and there is the sweet smell of the beef, wok-crisped edges of theses (4 ) squares of beef massaged to tenderness that is Wagyu. One happy animal given'it up for me. Shiitaki mushrooms are quartered and shaved of the outer cap skin, finely diced black truffles. The truffles are barely a texture and an elusive flavor. For my taste, I would suggest finely shaved leaves of truffles for the textural play against the tender rich cubes of Wagyu. This sexy earthy experience is swallowed whole. The dish is a delicious sexy earthy experience. |
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Braised hand-warmer size of abalone. 3” oval hot and promising great delights – it does. The fat slice of carrot is cored and stuffed with a whole dried scallop (conpoy) steamed until the concentrated flavors open. This dish offers a revelation to the bite. Garnished with tiny tender cilantro fronds. Tiny tender cilantro fronds garnish and adds a piquant top note. A revelation in every bite is discovered in this duo. |
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The lobster tail is the perfect textural contrast to the the bed of pea shoots poached and plated as if seaweed washed up onto the shore. chicken poaching broth marries land and sea glistening at the bottom of the rimmed soup dish. |
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At Chinese banquets, rice is served at the end the mult-course meal just in case one is not full. One taste, two taste, not a third or more and that was pushing the boundaries of fullness. Delicious! I was so overwhelmed I forgot to ask for the rice to be carried out or would that have been tacky? |
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I am not a fan of Chinese deserts. Wait, I take that back. The hot almond liquid is the essence of almond – floral and so lightly sweetened it tasted natural to the nut. The two dumplings are more like mochi – the rice pounded to a glutinous pillow stuffed with peanut flecked paste.
In writing about the experience of Chef Chan Yan Tak's Cantonese dishes, I include numbers to some of the components of his dishes. Seemingly small tasting portions are in reality incredibly generous. In Michelin star restaurants I customarily choose to dine as the chef would desire the diner to do--to experience his/her philosophy of food in the symphony of flavors created through the succession of each dish. Maestros of the multi-course menu bring the palate to a crescendo and gently floats the experience to completion. Chef Chan Yan Tak is a master. |
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